Resolving retention issues

Most likely than not, retention issues originated from the steps before the lash extension application

There are many things we like to blame when it comes to retention issues, we blame the client, we blame the glue, we blame the lashes, we blame the technique of application and everything else in between. Don’t get us wrong, all those contributes to retention issues, a lot of the times, all of them do to some extent. Which is why we’ve gathered some tips to help prevent retention issues. 

1. Lash extensions don’t stick to dirty lashes 

It’s so important to emphasize to clients that they should not only NEVER wear mascara over their lash extensions but they shouldn’t have any makeup on before a lash appointment. Creams, sunscreen, makeup, foundation and all the products have residue and leaves oils and dirt on lashes so it’s important to clean the clients’ lashes before a lash application. This ensures that the lashes stick on to clean lashes and minimize retention problems. 

2. Check temperature and humidity

The main ingredient of all lash adhesives on the market is cyanoacrylate which is the what makes the adhesive stick. All lash adhesives will indicate the drying time and retention period but that all will depend on the conditions of when the lash adhesives are used. Temperature and humidity is utmost important and being a chemical compounded substance, the glue is very sensitive to temperature and humidity. Always follow the optimum temperature and humidity written on the glue instruction. Use a humidifier or dehumidifier to create the optimum conditions and have at least 2 brands of glue that can work on different temperature and humidity conditions. Make use of a hygrometer, you won’t regret it. 

3. Lash adhesive

Especially when you use the glue for the first time at the start of your lash appointment, give the lash adhesive a good shake for at least 30 seconds so that if there is any separation in the bottle, it is well mixed. Always store the glue upright and ideally in an airtight container. Finding the right lash adhesive for you and your working conditions will come with a lot of trials and error, there’s not one bottle of glue that works perfectly for everyone and their working conditions. Use a new drop of glue between every 30-40 minutes, depending on your conditions because working with a fresh dot of glue will help the lashes adhere better and prevent retention issues. 

4. Lash placement 

It’s important to make sure that the lash extension is applied correctly and directly on the natural lash, this way you’ll get the cleanest lash line and also the best retention. Making sure the root of the lash extension is fully connected and adhered to the natural lash is important, because when the lash lifts, it will fall off a lot quicker and it will hook onto the mascara wands when the client brush their lashes. 

5. Use the right lash extensions

If you use a lash that is too thick or too long for your client’s natural lashes then it will fall off a lot quicker. Only use lashes that the client’s natural lashes will be able to handle, the general rule of thumb is 3mm longer than the natural lashes. Now with the ellipse lashes that some of you may already use, because of the flat shape of the ellipse lashes, it is not only lightweight compared to the normal classic lashes but they are very soft. 

Often for clients who request for much longer lengths than their natural lashes could handle, using ellipse lashes would be a much better option. 

6. Aftercare 

This unfortunately is out of the hands of everyone except the client themselves. It’s important to educate the clients on aftercare, such as not using oil based products, using too much makeup because what goes on has to come off and it’s usually the makeup removal process that causes retention issues, also cleaning lashes everyday even if they don’t use makeup because dirt and natural oil builds up on the lashes. Another thing is to remind clients to brush their lashes everyday, especially after they get wet, brush it upwards to set the shape of the lashes when they dry. 

7. Use a nano mister

The main ingredient of lash adhesive, being cyanoacrylate must polymerise for the adhesive to dry or cure. This curing process turns the adhesive from a liquid into a solid and in order for this process to take affect, water must be present. By using a small amount of water, from the nano mister, you start curing the lash adhesive immediately.

Since water is naturally found in the air (humidity), the adhesive would eventually cure over time without using a nano mister but that process usually takes between 24 to 48 hours. Even though water is needed to cure the adhesive, too much of it can easily break the bond of the adhesive, which is why the use of the nano mister is so effective because it controls the amount of water that is released.

These are all our retention tips and we hope that it will help you figure out where retention problems arise for you.

At Lashpro, we are all about girls supporting each other and sharing knowledge and tips! If you have some great tips on lashing or anything related to lashing, send us an email and we will feature you and your tips!

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